The Lagoon Road. Friuli Venezia Giulia, from the Adriatic to the Marl of the Hills

The Lagoon Road starts where the land is flat and the sea is close. Pinot Grigio from the plain, then from the hills, and the difference says more than any label. The road climbs into the Colli Orientali with Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, and ends on Refosco: one grape, two wines, one raised by the Adriatic, one by the marl. The whole region, crossed twice. Once in white, once in red.

Wineries: Pitars, Francesco Rotolo, Ermacora, Tenimenti Civa, Tarlao, Gori Agricola, Villa Vitas, Bucovaz, Colutta.

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