VIA Verona 2026 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio Tutela Vino Custoza Doc
Custoza Contemporary Blend
Eros Teboni, former Sommelier of the Year, presented for the Consorzio and focused on the theme of a contemporary blend, made with northeastern native grapes: Garganega, Cortese, Tocai Friulano, and Trebbiano Toscano. The blend is decided by each producer but must have at least 3 of the grapes, and not one of them can exceed 45% in the blend. Up to 30% of the blend can also include Incrocio Manzoni, Riesling, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco.
Custoza DOC was founded in 1971 and the region is located at the southern end of Lake Garda. It covers 3 climates: Alpine, Mediterranean and moderate continental. All the vineyards must be planted on the hills, and the soils are a combination of morainic, clay, volcanic, limestone, sand. Custoza has 1,400 hectares of vines, 480 growers, 72 wineries, and produces 11,000,000 bottles per year. The focus is on "contemporary" drinkability, freshness, versatility; Eros explains that minerality, elegance, longevity are secondary considerations here, although all three exist in Custoza.
The styles of the wines often mimic Pinot Blanc: with light aromas, white florals, yellow fruit, and mellow spices. Custoza is still considered a young region in terms of quality, and the Custoza DOC did not have Riserva category until 2019. He says "Custoza is everybody’s sweetheart wine, very versatile, easy drinking, like a hug. The Superiore and the Riserva are very useful in food pairing, and they can accommodate many different dishes".
Producers here are truly good friends with each other, supportive, and collaborative in a way not often seen in Italy. Key words for Custoza's classic style include crisp, fresh, "drink and enjoy". Their profile falls somewhere between Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio. Producers are working more with lees now, to build body and texture. Soils and altitude are key for Custoza, as well as a very cool breezy wind from north to south in the morning, and a warm afternoon wind from south to north. A strong diurnal temperature change gives strength to the aromatics. Lower alcohol Custoza wines work well with spicy food.
Il Pignetto Custoza DOC 2024 has a very neutral nose, lovely unripe yellow fruit and cedro peel, clean, clear, slippery, soft, not as aromatic as anticipated, with some gentle green fresh herbal notes.
Corte Fornello Custoza DOC 2024 is very floral, honeysuckle and gingery, sweet apple sauce, high acid, green almond finish, slightly richer, a little weightier on the palate.
Tamburino Sardo Custoza DOC Superiore "La Guglia" 2023 reductive, struck match, ripe apricot, sage, beeswax, textural, waxy, saline, green olive – reductive conditions force the aromas. There was a brief period of drying on stalks in fridges to increase richness, removes some water, ups the sugar a bit.
Monte Del Frà Custoza DOC Superiore "Cà Del Magro" 2023 clean, tropical, passion fruit, chalky texture, balanced, very nice lime acidity, herbal bath sea salts, long finish.
Gorgo Custoza DOC Riserva "SUB27" (named for the parcel) 2022 beautifully petrichor, green banana peel, buttery, butterscotch, vanilla, white peach, dried pineapple, mandarin peel (Pioneers in Custoza, the Bricolo family owns the estate, and Roberta Bricolo is the current President of Consorzio).
Albino Piona Custoza DOC Riserva 2021 saline and herbal, bitter lime peel, lemon pith.
Only 6 wineries produce Riserva.
Eros says Custoza is truly a sommelier's best friend. In Valeggio sul Mincio, a tiny fairytale town in the area, the Tortello di Custoza has just been created: a fresh pasta filled with Monte Veronese cheese. Veronese celery and Custoza zabaione are also typical local specialties. We all agreed that we need to take a field trip to taste them—only 15 minutes from Veronafiere.
Wines tasted:
1. IL PIGNETTO: Custoza Doc 2024
2. CORTE FORNELLO: Custoza Doc 2024
3. TAMBURINO SARDO: Custoza Doc Superiore "La Guglia" 2023
4. MONTE DEL FRÀ: Custoza Doc Superiore "Cà del Magro" 2023
5. GORGO: Custoza Doc Riserva "SUB 27" 2022
6. ALBINO PIONA: Custoza Doc Riserva 2021