VIA Verona 2026 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio Tutela Vini Torgiano
Torgiano: At the Origins of Umbrian Wine
The masterclass “Torgiano: At the Origins of Umbrian Wine”, presented by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Torgiano, with Sarah Heller MW alongside Francesco Zaganelli and Federico Bibi, focused on one of the earliest and most historic denominations in Italy, Torgiano DOC.
Torgiano DOC, established in 1968, was one of Umbria’s first denominations, spearheaded by pioneering winemaker Giorgio Lungarotti. The denomination highlights wines from an ancient Etruscan-Roman area, with Torgiano Rosso Riserva gaining DOCG status in 1990. The area is famed for its Sangiovese-based reds and structured whites. Francesco Zaganelli represents the third generation of the family-run winery in the central western part of Umbria in the middle of the Umbrian valley. His grandfather (Giorgio Lungarotti) was the first to recognize the commercial potential of wines from the region.
Federico Bibi is the sales manager and visionary behind the Terre Margaritelli winery, a certified organic, sustainable winery recognized for producing high-quality wines while focusing on environmental conservation and research.
Torgiano's key geographical features include its location at the confluence of the Tiber and Chiascio rivers, creating sunny, well-ventilated hillsides. Situated near Perugia, the area has a Mediterranean climate moderated by the Apennines, with clay, sand, and pebble soils.
The first wine poured in this session was a Rosato di Torgiano, a pale salmon-pink Italian rosé made from Sangiovese grapes (100% in this case), though also often blended with Canaiolo nero. It is characterized by a soft, fresh, and dry profile with notes of red berries, cherries, and aromatic herbs. The conversation also explored winemaking technique and the target market for the region’s rosato wines, which include Germany and Japan as well as other established European countries as well as the local domestic market. It was observed that rosato is no longer a seasonal product and now has its own distinct identity.
Next on the flight was a Bianco di Torgiano. Bianco di Torgiano, particularly represented by the Torre di Giano from the Lungarotti winery, is renowned for its elegance, freshness, and careful blend of Vermentino, Grechetto and Trebbiano. Again, the conversation explored winemaking techniques and objectives in producing this style of wine. While standard Bianco di Torgiano is generally vinified in stainless steel to maintain freshness, premium versions utilize wood to add complexity.
The next two wines in the flight were Rosso di Torgiano, primarily Sangiovese (minimum 50-70% depending on the specific label, sometimes up to 100%), blended with other local non-aromatic red grapes, such as Malvasia Nera and Canaiolo and aged in French oak barriques to soften the tannins while maintaining the vibrant fruit profile.
Francesco Zaganelli explained how Sangiovese from Torgiano is distinct from Tuscan and Romagna styles due to its specific terroir, historically leaning toward a more elegant, structured, and long-lived style compared to the often-rustic Tuscan Sangiovese or the fruit-forward, high-acid Sangiovese di Romagna. While in Torgiano the tannins are refined and firm, in Tuscany they tend to be more pungent and aggressive.
The final two wines in the flight were Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG. Federico Bibi introduced the Terre Margaritelli Riserva. The conversation explored winemaking techniques, marketing approach, and the place of wine in the wider cultural context. Sarah also identified the particular peppery characteristic that differentiates these wines from their Tuscan counterparts. The conversation then turned to the impact of climate change on the region and the expansion of biodiversity to mitigate the impact of rising temperatures and water scarcity. Finally, the panel discussed the cyclical nature of the international market for red and white Italian wines and progress with the development of Umbria as a distinct brand.
Wines tasted:
1. TERRE MARGARITELLI: Rosato di Torgiano Doc “Venturosa” 2025
2. LUNGAROTTI: Bianco di Torgiano Doc “Torre di Giano - Vigna il Pino” 2022
3. TERRE MARGARITELLI: Rosso di Torgiano Doc “Miràntico” 2022
4. LUNGAROTTI: Rosso di Torgiano Doc “Rubesco 62” 2022
5. TERRE MARGARITELLI: Torgiano Rosso Riserva Docg “Freccia degli Scacchi” 2021
6. LUNGAROTTI: Torgiano Rosso Riserva Docg “Rubesco - Vigna Monticchio” 2020