Origin, identity and wine scores: what really makes a wine great?

In a world increasingly driven by data, rankings and scores, wine continues to call for a more nuanced, more human approach. But what really makes a wine great? That is a question that crosses the entire supply chain, from the vineyard to tasting, and that is intertwined with themes of identity, origin and cultural perception.

During a lively discussion between Andrea Lonardi MW and Robert Joseph in the context of the wine2wine Business Forum, it emerged that knowing the origin of a wine radically changes the perception and evaluation of the product. So, in contexts such as wine competitions, where blind tasting is commonplace, there is a risk of not grasping a wine’s territorial authenticity.

Evaluation of a wine: is it possible to take a neutral approach?

Robert Joseph emphasized how the evaluation of a wine during a wine selection is never really neutral: each culture brings with it its own way of tasting and judging. A wine appreciated in one market may be negligible in another. That’s why, according to Andrea Lonardi, building a consistent identity over time rather than chasing impromptu scores is so important.

Two approaches to tasting

The dialogue between the two wine experts also highlighted the different perspectives in tasting: the producer looks for defects, the wine critic looks for emotion. Understanding this duality is essential to foster a wine culture that is not limited to technical performance but also enhances the personality of the wine and the imprint of the place.

The New “Classic”

In today’s landscape, Italian wine stands out for its ability to embody a new sense of classicism—a “backbone” built on Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and Nerello. Though distinct from one another, these varieties share key traits: vibrant acidity, color transparency, and refined tannic structure.

And then there are the wines that defy categories—like a Lambrusco of exceptional drinkability, praised by Joseph for its ability to deliver pure joy without compromising technical precision.

These are wines that express Italian identity with both lightness and intention. In an era obsessed with scores and medals, perhaps what truly matters is this: finding in each glass the voice of a place, the touch of its maker, and the pleasure of the one who drinks it.

Andrea Lonardi MW

Andrea Lonardi MW is a viticulturist, oenologist, and business strategist who has led major projects for GIV and Angelini Wine Estates, revitalizing historic Italian wine brands. A graduate of the University of Bologna with a Master’s degree from Montpellier, he has introduced production innovations and driven fine wine strategies. He is a Master of Wine and a lecturer for the Vinitaly International Academy.

Robert Joseph

Robert Joseph is Associate Editor of Meininger’s Wine Business International and cofounder of Wine International and the International Wine Challenge. He is the author of 25 wine books, a lecturer for the WSET and wine business schools, and cofounder of the Hugh Kevin & Robert Wines brand. He recently launched the winery K’AVSHIRI in Georgia.