VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta
The second Masterclass on Thursday was sponsored by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta, "Discover Franciacorta: Italy’s Premier Sparkling Wine Through it’s Different Typologies". Giammario Villa, Franciacorta Brand Ambassador in the USA, presented the session.
"We taste with our eyes" was Giammario's introduction to a glamorous video overview of Franciacorta and its wines, demonstrating the cultural benefit investment and fashion from Milan have brought to the brand. The region is in Lombardy, in northwest Italy, with the Rhaetian Alps, Lake Iseo and the Oglio River providing the key geological features. Franciacorta covers 200 square kilometers, with 3, 439 ht of vineyards. It's a young denomination, DOCG was granted in 1995 and the Consorzio itself just turned 35 years old. Giammario explained that almost all 122 wineries in the DOCG are members of the Consorzio, which is highly unusual in Italy. Organic certification here is important, with 66% of wineries already certified.
Climate change, soil and genetics, plus human influence, geology and geography are all crucial aspects of Franciacorta wines. In the 11th century, Cistercian monks in the region were already focused on viticulture. The region became "Francae Curtes" – a tax free zone and, by 1277 Franzacurta was a frequent term in the business records of the city of Brescia.
Giammario pointed out Albamatta (Erbamat) was in the literature by 1564 and Napoleonic records from 1809 refer to fizzy wines. Currently, Chardonnay makes up 78% of grapes grown, Pinot Noir is 18.7%, Pinot Bianco is 3% and Erbamant is 0.3%. The potential for high acid, late ripening Erbamat is crucial as we confront climate change, with high heat and lack of rain.
The ageing requirements for each typology were noted: Brut must have a minimum of 18 months, Rosé and Saten must have a minimum of 24 months. Giammario explained that Satèn could be the bridge to the global market for Franciacorta, with its creamier, juicier style. The word ‘Satèn’ comes from the Italian word for satin, referring to the silky smooth texture of this wine, produced at lower pressure than Franciacorta Brut and Rosé (less than 5 bar). It is the only typology from the region which is limited to blanc de blanc, using only Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco. He also emphasized the importance of Franciacorta’s versatility in food pairing and encouraged students to step away from traditional pairings with Italian foods and take a look at Franciacorta’s ability to pair with many dishes from a wide variety of international food cultures.
Sarah asked about the "chasing" of drier styles. Is it due to climate change or market driven? Giammario explained the winemakers are now dealing with brutally higher temperatures and early ripening fruit. The climate is dictating the style but the winemaker can adapt and control what ends up in the glass. Modern styles seem to be driven by Chardonnay, possibly because it is the easiest to grow. Less oak is being used today than a decade ago, but it is still a factor in creating a style. Consumers are seeking more primary aromas now, so the use of oak is more about enriching texture. Technology and know-how has a lot to do with Franciacorta now, remembering that 30% of the vineyards are currently less than 20 years old.
Wines tasted (with remarks from Giammario):
1. Montina: Franciacorta DOCG Brut NV. Crisp, producing persistent salivation, saline and hay notes, with a hint of crusty bread, morainic soil.
2. Majolini: Franciacorta DOCG Brut Millesimato 2020. Herbal and mineral, intense, expressive, more foamy, less saline (90% Chard 10% PN, short barrel fermentation), clay limestone soil.
3. Le Marchesine: Franciacorta Brut Secolo Novo 2015. Fruity, orchard fruits, peachy, floral, jasmine.
4. Mosnel: Franciacorta DOCG Brut Satèn Millesimato 2020. Creamy, sapid, persistent.
5. Mirabella: Franciacorta Brut Rosé "Edea" NV. 45% PN, 45 %Chardonnay, 10% PB. Less than 24 hours skin maceration, very pale gold color. Giammario remarked that many producers are staying away from a deeper pink color. There are small red fruits and purple flowers in the nose here, but on the palate, it is Chardonnay driving the car with fruit and herbal notes. The Pinot Bianco adds to the texture.
6. Ronco Calino: Franciacorta DOCG Brut Nature Millesimato 2019. Chalky texture balances well with the high acidity and persistence of salivation.
7. Enrico Gatti: Franciacorta Natur 2015.
8. Corte Aura: Franciacorta DOCG Riserva Brut Nature Millesimato "Raramè" 2012. Hazelnut note from morainic soil. Herbal and floral with great warm mouthfeel and good structure – like a big hug. Melon flavors in the finish, with chalky texture.