VIA Verona 2025 Supporter Masterclass: Consorzio di Tutela del Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG
After a break for lunch, VIA resumed with the third Masterclass, presented by Diego Tomasi, Director of the Consorzio di Tutela del Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG. Entitled "The Essence of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco: Terroirs, Vintages, and Styles", the session focused on what Diego called "this little island in the big sea of Prosecco". Friuli and Veneto share the Prosecco denomination, with 660 million bottles produced every year; however, Conegliano Valdobbiadene produces only 90 million of those bottles, 42 % of which are exported.
Diego asked the question, "Why is Conegliano Valdobbiadene 'Superiore'?" The strength is in the terroir. Soil was in the spotlight again, with Conegliano and Valdobbiadene having 9 different soil types overall. The very steep slopes of the hills and the wide variety of microclimates makes this region unique and perfect for the Glera grapes grown here. "Al Prosecco" was already mentioned in Napoleonic documents in 1811, denoting the hills of the region. By 1855 local farmers were using very basic tools to terrace the steep hills to make room for more vineyards. Almost all of the viticulture here is by hand, even to this day, and considered 'artisan' in nature.
There are 43 cru designations (called "Rive") based upon the soil and microclimate of each. Biodiversity plays a part as well, with tree planting and protection required. Biodiversity is a key feature of the region, with 57% forests and no more planting of vineyards allowed. This creates a "mosaic landscape" and Glera thrives here, providing what Diego calls "an olfactory symphony" – giving various flavors, aromas and characteristics depending on locations.
Examples of the particular Rives are Santo Stefano, with more peach, pear and floral notes and a perceived resistance to climate change. Cartizze is the most coveted area, on limestone soil over 100 ht. Land here costs €1 million per ht and it is slightly cooler on average, with a later ripening season. Floral notes and tropical fruits are predominant here, with great elegance. Sustainability is the cornerstone of modern Conegliano Valdobbiadene and use of chemical treatments is banned, particularly nitrogen and glyphosates.
Sarah asked Diego to clarify distinctions between Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Asolo for tasters. He responded by pointing out Asolo is warmer in general, which gives more citrus and more ripe fruit aromas, with a greater feel of density. Conegliano Valdobbiadene is cooler, with more red clay soils and the wines have more freshness, more floral notes and more elegance, typically with less residual sugar.
Wines tasted (with remarks from Diego):
1. Cà Salina: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut Rive di Santo Stefano 2023. Sarah says the wine brings to mind small fresh spring flowers like narcissus, with minerals, very dry.
2. Ruggeri: Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG Brut 2023. Diego reminds us that Valdobbiadene is on very steep hills, poor soil and lower production, giving us more floral and more elegant wine. 40 year old vineyards facing south, regulated by winds. Great ripening potential here but consumers prefer drier styles lately, so keeping residual sugar down is key. There is a phenolic structure and a pleasantly bitter finish to balance the sweet, ripe fruit.
3. Gabe Tenute: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Fior di Sale 2023. Much more body, rounded on the palate, fuller, with an interesting durian-esque stinkiness, and an oily texture that adds to the softer mouthfeel.
4. Fasol Menin: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Cama NV. Delicate, yuzu citrus notes, a slight bitterness on the finish, precise. Greener, herbal, floral and fresher on the nose, riper and more concentrated and intense on the palate.
5. Toffoli: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Gold 2024. Very fresh despite a hot vintage, this shows the effect of the steep hills and the diurnal temperature change they can offer. New generation taking over from an old family, very good site location. Sarah called it very harmonious, seamless, powdery texture, sweetness is there, but it all fits together beautifully.
6. Adami: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Dry Vigneto Giardino Rive di Colbertaldo 2015. Celebrating the 10th anniversary of VIA, this wine has lost its primary fresh fruit notes, but it has developed an interesting beeswax character like an aged Riesling. It had six months on yeasts during the second fermentation in the tank. This wine is not on the market, it comes from the private collection, it has not been deliberately aged for sale.
Diego explained that, in the past, the idea was that all Prosecco should be drunk within one year. Now they are discovering that high quality Prosecco can have more than one period in its life. "The youthful period is lovely, with freshness and floral notes. But now we can taste something new, in the next period of semi-ageing, from 4 to 6 years, we find something new". He revealed that the 5th biggest export market for Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is France. He expects it to continue to grow as younger drinkers discover the fresh and elegant quality of these wines. He has even been invited to speak about the wines of this region in Rheims.