Tasting Ex...Press: Indigenous varieties from Hungary
The tasting will be conducted in English and Italian
The big trends of wine market has been changing a lot in the last 20 years. Nowadays apart from being ecological a wine is required to be unique. The tendency in the world wine consumption is looking for something original, something unique.
The premium wines with the highest prestige in the world are mostly wines made from autochton varieties.
Hungary has exceptional facilities, regarding our soils, our traditions, our climate and our autochton grape varieties, in one word: the Hungarian terroir. We have several indeginous grape varieties but not as many as Italy or Spain has.
The area of the Hungarian vineyards are only 60 000 hectars, so we can not produce big quantities, we produce little but high quality wine, that we would like to show the world.
We have 22 wine regions, some say it is too many, but if you consider that we can divide them into six bigger wine regions, then their existence seems to be fair enough.
I did a selection from different points of view. I am going to show some big Hungarian wine brands, made from our most famous indeginous varieties and of course some varietal wines in connection with the terroir where they derive from. Now I am going to show you just some of the regions: Balaton, Tokaj, Eger, Villány, and Mátra.
Traditionally each region has its own typical varieties, but the legislation allows to cultivate dozens of varieties in every region. Tokaj is an exception, the wine law allows one to cultivate only seven varieties there.
However I will show you some emblematic matchings between indegineous varieties and regions.
We are going to start with a traditional method sparkling wine, that is called Pezsgő in Hungary, just like Cava in Catalonia or Champagne. The basic wine is made from Furmint, it comes from Tokaj’s Region, that is the main region of this variety in Hungary.
We have a Hárslevelű from Tokaj’s Region. The variety plays an important role in this as it is full of harmony, elegance and charm.
We are still in the Balaton Region with the fourth wine. One cannot miss a selection of Olaszrizling but this year not from Csopak but from the Mountain Badacsony.
Then we are going to taste an aristocratic variety, it is called Kéknyelű and its motherland is Badacsony Region where it is exclusively planted.
Here is a Riesling again from Badacsony, a basaltic hill. It is interesting to see what a Riesling can produce in this region. The variety has been here since the XVII. century.
Two years ago I presented several Furmints, that is a great autochton variety with a characteristic acid structure. Now I chose only one from Szerencs.
From the volcanic region Eger I have selected a Kadarka that is considered to be the Hungarian Pinot Noir, so elegant and interesting variety.
From the Region Mátra there is a Kékfrankos selection, which is the leading blue grape variety of Hungary regarding quantity. And you will be surprised to see the quality of this important variety. Kékfrankos may also be known as Blaufrankisch in Germany, but our Kékfrankos is much more full bodied and rounded. It is an easy to understand, joyful variety. I chose this sample from Szőke Mátyás the „Winemaker of the year 2017”.
I would like to show you a Bull’s blood this year not from Szekszárd, but from Eger Wine Region. Despite its name it is a rather elegant blend. Respecting the wine law it has to contain at least 50 percent of Kékfrankos and Kadarka. This one has 40 percent Kékfrankos, so you can see what this variety becomes when it is blended.
Then we cannot miss Cabernet franc from Villány. „This variety has found its natural home in Villány” - told Michael Broadbent for the Decanter Magazine in 2000. By the way „Villány is much more like Saint Emilion than Medoc” – said a well known winemaker from Villány, so I chose a beautiful sample from the Villány’s Region.
We have a late harvested Yellow Muscat from Tokaj Wine Region, and in the end we are going to taste the most famous Hungarian brand a 6 Puttonyos Aszú from Tokaj’s Region.
Most of these wines can also be found at the International Hall at the Hungarian stand. These wines are from Árpádhegy Winery, Gilvesy Estate, Laposa Estate, Orosz Gábor Winery
Garamvári Estate: Furmint Pezsgő, 2014
Laposa Winery: PiNo (Szürkebarát), 2017
Laposa Winery: Kéknyelű, 2016
Gilvesy Estate: Martinus Olaszrizling, 2016
Gilvesy Estate: Tarányi Rajnai Rizling, 2016
Árpádhegy Winery: Veresek Furmint, 2015
Szőke Mátyás & Zoltán: Mátrai Kékfrankos, 2015
Tóth Ferenc: Kadarka, 2015
Gere Tamás és Zsolt: Villányi franc válogatás, 2012
Thummerer Vilmos: Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Nagy-Eged, 2012
Orosz Gábor Winery: Sárgamuskotály, late harvest, 2015
Árpádhegy Winery: Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos, 2010
Grabowski Digital Kft. - Bor&Piac Magazine
Dayka Gábor utca 3, Budapest 1118 - Hungary